Wax-thread sewing-machine



F. CHATEAUNEUF. WAX THREAD SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 7, IS-II?.

atented May IU, 3921i.

8 SHEEISSHEET I.

F. CHATEAUNEUF.v

WAX THREAD SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION ITILEIIl MAY 7. 191.7.

Patented May w, 1m.

8 SHEETS-SHEET.2.

F4 CHATEAUNEUF WAX THREAD SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 7, 1917- Patented May 10., 192i.

8 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

F. CHATEAUNEUF WAX THREAD SEWING MACHINE.

I, ,i WM M m w wm W W/ APPLICATION FILED MAY 7. I9I7.

F. CHATEAUNEUF wAx THREAnYsEwlNG' MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 7. |917.

Patented AMay '10, 1921.

B. SHEETS-SHEET 5.

F. CHATEAUNEUF` WAX THREAD SEWING MACHINE.

@f WW Patenfea May w, 19211.?

APPLlCATlON FILEDl MAYJ, 19H.

F. CHATEAUNEUF .wAx THREAD sswma MACHINE. IPPIICATION FILED MAY-7, 119i?- 1,3773 1 1 Patented May 10, 1923i.

x A m" 4 Ultll''@ SFAFS Fieriltl'll @FFME FRANK CHATEAUNEUF, 0E' .SNAMPSCOT MASSCHUSFTTS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSGNMENTS, TO 'UNTEE SGE MGHNABY CGRPORATEGN, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPGRATION 0F NEW' JERSEY.

WAX-THREAD SEWING-MACHINE.

Lettieri.

Application filed Mey 7, 1l7.

a citizen of the United States, residing at Swampscott, in the county o1 Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in lFaX- Thread Sewing-Machines; and l do hereby declare the following to be a Jfull, clear, and exact description of the invention,` such as will enable others Skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to wax thread sewing machines. The invention is illustrated as embodied in a machine comprising a hook needle and devices cooperating therewith to form a chain-stitch seam and constructed for sewing inseams of shoes. Certain features of the invention, however, are not limited to chain-stitch machines, while other features arenot limited to machines `for sewino1 inseai Ls orn shoes and it is to be understood that except Vas defined in the claims the invention is not limited to any particular machine or type ot machine.

One objectief the invention is to improve the construction and mode ot operation of certain parts of wax thread sewing machines with a view ot improving the manner in which the stitches are formed and tightened. With this object 'in view, certain features oit the invention relate to improvement in the mode of opera-tion of the looper and thread finger.

Another object of the invention is to improve the construction and operation ot looper mechanisms :tor wai; thread sewing machines.

With these, objects in view the invention comprises certain novel and improved constructions, arrangements and combinations ci' parts hereinafter described and pointed out in the claims.

The features or" the invention will be readily understood from the accompanying drawings illustra ing a machine embodying the invention in its preferred form and the following detailed description` of the construction therein shown.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a view in i'ront elevation oi a machine embodying the invention; Fig. 2 is a plan view ot the machine; Fig. 3 is a view in side elet-'ation of the machine locking from the left; Fig.' e

Specification of Letters Patent.

.portion of the back Patented May 10, 1921..

Serial No. 166,943.

is a view in side elevation of the machine looking from the right; Fig. 5 is a view in vertical section ot the machine; Fig. `6 is a detail view in side elevation partly in section, illustrating particularly the feed pointv and channel guide mechanism; Fig. 7 is a detail view in vertical section taken substantially on the line 7-7 ot Fig. 3, and illustrating particularly the back gage and bach rest mechanisms; Fig. 8 is a detail view in rear elevation illustrating particularly the looper and thread linger mechanisms; Fig. 9 is a detail view partly in section, illustrating particularly the needle and needle guide mechanism; Fig. 10 is a detail view in trent elevation, partly broken away7 illustrating gage mechanism; 11 is a detail sectional view, taken substantially on the line 11-11 oi' Fig. 10; Fig. 12 is a detail view illustrating a construction provided to enable certain adjustments of the eye of the loo-per to be made; Fig. 13 is a Vsectional view, taken substantially on the line 1313 of Fig. 12; Figs. 14:, 15, 16 and 17 are diagrammatic views illustrating the mode of operation ot the feed point and channel guide; Fig. 18 is a detail view illustrating particularly the manner in which the feed point penetrates the stock; Fig. 19 is a detail sectional view, taken substantially on the line 19-19 ot F 1; Figs. 20, 21, 22, 23, 21.1., 25, 26 and 27 are diagrammatic views illustrating the mode of operation of the thread finger and loopcr, 20, 22, 24 and 26 illustrating in side elevation the positions of these parts at tour diii'erent points in a cycle of operations, and Figs. 21, 23, 25 and 27 illustrating in plan the positions of these parts at these same points in a cycle.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is an inseam shoe sewing machine having the same general construction and mode ot' operation as the Vmachine illustrated and described in the patent to `Flppler, No. 1,108,560, dated August 25. 1914. rFhe machine cornprises an oscillating curyed hook needle 2, a needle guide 4, a looper 6, a thread arm 8, a take-up 10, a tension device 12, a channel guide 14, a baclr gage 16, and a back rest 18.

The needle 2 is clamped to a needle carpartly in section,.

rier 20 pivotally mounted upon `the stud V22. Thel needle carrier isoscillated upon the stud 22 by means of a cam lever 24 piv- V I oted upon the stud 26 and having its for# ward end Vconnected with the needle can rier by means of a linlr 28. The cam lever 24 (Figs. 2 and 5) carries a cam roll 80 engaging in a cam groove in a cam disk 82 mounted on the main shaft 84 of themachine. The lever 24 is connectedV with the 'link 28 by means et a stud 36 secured in a -slot 38 in the cam lever. By securing the stud 36 in different positions in the slot 88 the stroke or' the needle maybe adjusted.

Theneedle guide 4 is mountedV on one end of the stud 22. To the opposite end of the stud is secured an arm 40 having a series of gear teeth 42 meshing with the gear teeth 44 formed, upon a level-46 pvoted upon the stud 48. The lever 46 is acted upon bya spring 50 coiled about the stud 48 and hav ing one end engaging the under side of a pin'52v mountedV on a frame and the other Vend engaging the upper side of a pin 54 mounted on the lever 46. This spring tends to swing the lever 46 downwardly to ad Vance the needle guide. The needle guide is formed withA a projection or shoulder 56 F ig. 5) lfor engagement with.V an abutment :tace 58 on the needle carrierY to cause the retraction of the needle guide with the needle as the needle retraets from the work. llVith this construction and arrangementof the needle guide and the actuating mechanism therefor, the needle guide advances with the needleV during the Vadvancing movement of i the needle until the pointV of the needle yhas penetrated the material andthe needle guide engages the work. The needle guide then is held stationary through its engagement with the Work and the needle advances independently of the needle guide, the abutment face 58 of the needle carrier-leaving the projection 56. During the retraeting movement of the needle the needle guide remains in position in engagement with the worlr until the the abutment faceV 58 of the needle carrier engages the projection 56 on the needle guide and the needle guide is then retracted' with the needle. The needle guide is thus advanced with the needle luntil the needle guide engages the work, regardless ot the thickness ofV the work at the point-of operation, and the needle guideV supports the needle closev to thepoint thereof when the needle is penetrating the work, at which time it is subjected to thegreatest strain.

The Vvlooper consists of a thread guide sleeve 59 securedA byV a clamping screw 60 in a split clamp formed at the lower end of a lever 62. 'The vlever- 62 is pivoted upfon a stud 64 secured in a lever 66 which in turn is pivoted upon a stud68 secured in the Yam@ of the machine. lThe sala e4 and needle.

the stud 68 are arranged so that their axes lie substantially in perpendicular planes; The axisof the stud 68 is substantially parallel with the plane of the needle while Vthe axis ofthe stud 64 is substantially perpendicular to the plane of the needle in one po sition of the lever 66. T heoscillation of the lever 66 upon the stud 68 will therefore Y upon the stud'64 relative to the lever 66,;the lever 66 is provided with a groove 70 (Fig.

8) inwbich engages a rib 72 formed on the lever 62. and with a rib 7 4 which engagesin a groove 76 formed 1n the lever 62. The

levers 66 and 62 are oseillated upon'their respectivepivot studs (S8-and 64 in .timed` relation to eachV other to carry the looper about the needle. The oscillating move-lV ments of the lever V66 are produced by the engagement ot a cam roll 78 mounted upon the upper end of the leverwith a cam groove in a cam disk 79, mounted onthe main shaft' 84, The oscillating movementsof the lever 62 are produced by means :off aV slide 8O mounted'in suitable guides `inthe :trame and having a block 82 pivoted upon a stud' 84 at its forward end and engaging in aY slot 86 in the lever 62. The rear end ofthe slide 80. carries a cam roll 88 engaging in'a cam groove in the cam disk 79; There is sufficient play between the block 82 and the sides of the slot 86 to prevent the binding of the block in the slot during the pivotalV inovement oit the lever 62 with the lever 66about the stud 68. The thread Guide opening or passageway 96'in the sleeve 59, which-.may

be termed the eye of the looper7 is eccentric to the sleeve, so that by loosening .the clamping screw 60 and turning the sleeve in the split cla-:np in the lever 62 the eye of the looper may be adjustedV relatively to.- the needle, This adjustment is provided par-V ticularly to enable the eyeotl the looperwto beV adiusted forwardlv and? rearwardl vrelatively to the needle, or in directions substantially parallelV with the plane of the needle, l The looper mechanism has also provision for adjusting the looper in directions sub-V stantially perpendicular to the plane of the In the illustrated construction; the cam' roll 7 8 is mountedu'pon the head of a studf 91 passingv through a wedge-shaped Vblock V92 engaging in ar'correspondingly wedge-shaped slot 100 in theilever 66. The width of the block 92 is such that when .the block is placed in the VYslot 100 the forward face of the block is not flush with the forward face of the lever at the sides of the slot, but lies somewhat rearwardly of saidV face of the lever as shown in Fig. 19. Upon the stud 91 is mounted a washer 102 engaging the lever at the opposite sides of the slot, and a nut 104 is threaded upon the forward end of the stud 91 to secure the block in the slot. With this construction, upon loosening the nut 104 the bloclr 92 may be adjusted longitudinally of the slot 100, and may be then securely clamped in adjusted position in the slot by tightening the nut. The adjustment of the block in the slot 100 effects an adjustment of the cam roll 7 8 in a direction substantially parallel with the plane of movement of the lever 66, and this results in an adjustment of the eye of the looper in a direction substantially perpendicular to the plane of the needle. By the provision for the adjustment of the looper in directions parallel and transverse to the plane of the needle, the path of the looper may be accurately adjusted relatively to the needle so that the looper will not strike the needle, and so that it will act in a uniformly reliable manner to loop the needle. The provisions for the adjustment of the looper are particularly useful in case the needle becomes bent slightly out of its proper position.

The tread arm 8 is adjustably secured by means of a screw 106 to the head 108 of a stud 110 mounted in a bearing on the frame of the machine. The thread arm is formed with a slot Y112 in which the screw 106 engages, this construction permitting a vertical adjustment of the thread arm. To prevent the turning of the thread arm relative to the stud 110, the arm is formed with a rib or tongue 114 (Fig. 8) which fits in a suitable slot in the head 108 of the stud. To the opposite end of the stud 110 is secured an arm 116 connected by a link 118 with one arm of a cam lever 120 pivoted upon a bushing 121 secured on a stud 122. Upon the other arm of the cam lever 120 is mounted a cam roll 124 engaging in a cam groove in the cam disk 79. The rear end of the link 118 is connected with the cam lever 120 by means of a stud 126 adjustably secured in a slot 128 in the lever. By adjusting the stud 126 in the slot 128 the amplitude of movement of the thread arm may be regulated.

The bushing 121 which passes throu h the cam lever 120 and forms a bearing or the lever is eccentrically mounted on the Stud 122. By the rotary adjustment of the bushing the cam lever may be adjusted to effect a forward or rearward adjustment of the limiting positions of the thread The thread arm is arranged and actuated so that, during its loopdraw1ng stroke, it

moves from the margin of the sole toward the central portion thereof. As will be noted from an inspection of Figs. 20 to 27 of the drawings, the thread extends from the bottom of the channel over the thread arm without engaging the channel flap. ln machines of this type the thread is ordinarily arranged to move from the central portion of the sole toward the sole margin in drawing out a loop of thread, thereby drawing the thread across the channel flap. This mode of operation of the thread arm has the disadvantages thatthe channel flap is lifted from the body of the Sole by the strain or pull exerted by the thread arm on the thread, and there is a lack of uniformity in the length of the thread \intermediate the thread arm and the bottom of the channel due to variations in the resistance of the channel flap, which results in lack of uniformity in the formation of the stitches. These disadvantages are avoided with the thread arm arranged as in the present ma.

chine to move from the margin of the sole toward the center thereof in drawing out a loop of thread.

The take-up consists of a roll mounted upon the forward end of a lever 130 pivoted upon the stud 132. The rear end of the lever 130 carries a cam roll 134 engaging in a cam groove in the cam disk 79.

The thread from the supply, after emerging from the wax pot (not shown) passes about the tension wheel of the tension device 12, thence forwardly through the tube 136, over the stationary thread truck 138, about the take-up roll, and thence downwardly and rearwardly through the eye of the looper to the work.

ln the present machine the manner in which the thread finger, looper and take-up operate to handle and control the thread differs somewhat from the usual mode of operation of these parts in this type of machine. During each cycle of operations of the machine, starting just before the needle advances, the thread arm, looper and take-up operate in the following manner: During the advancing movement of the needle-the thread is drawn fairly taut about the shank of the needle by the operation of the take-up,

Yand just before the needle finishes its advancing stroke the thread arm is swung forwardly to draw out a loop of thread between the looper and the work. During this movement of the thread arm the looper is moved in the same direction as the thread arm, but a less distance, to ease or cushion the strain exerted by the thread arm on the thread. During the advancing movement of the needle the thread arm and looper move from substantially the positions shown in Figs. 20 and 21 to those shown in Figs. 22 and 23. As will be noted from an inspection of Fig.

. of the take-up and thread arm the thread is `the needle.

work.

drawn very taut about the shank of the needle. rillhe thread is thus tightened around the shank of the needle while the needle is still advancing, and by thel friction of the needle upon the thread the end of the loop is forced slightly into the work, as clearly f shown in F ig. 23. After the needle has completed its forward stroke, the looper is moved back substantially to its original position, and the threadv arm is moved rearwardly withv the looper substantially the same distance as the looper. Figs. 24 and 25 illus trate the positions of the looper and thread` arm at the completion of their rearward movements at this time in a cycle. These movements ofthe looper and thread arm bring the looper into position to start its movement about the needle to thread the needle, and keeps the thread taut between thework and the supply. Vhile'the looper is laying the thready about the needle the thread arm is stationary and the take-up is` given a slight upward movement to tighten the thread and insure the proper looping of fis the needle starts to retract, the'looper moves over vfrom a position at one side'of the plane of the needle into the plane of the needle. During the retracting stroke of the needle the thread finger is stationary untilthe barb of the needle engages in the work, and the thread is supplied to the needle chieiiy by the action of the take-up. After the barb of the needle engages in the work,`

the take-up and thread finger are operated to give up thread freely, the thread finally slipping o' the thread finger. This obviates any reeving of the thread through the barb of the needle while the barb .is passing through the work. Figs. 26 and 27 illustrate the position of the parts at a point in the retracting stroke of the needle when the barb of the needle is passing through the From the time when the barb of the needle emerges fromV the work until the needle is near the end of its retracting stroke, the take-up is operated in timed relation to the'needle to give up thread to the needle, as required by the needle without allowing the thread to become slack. Just before the needle reaches the end of its retraeting last stitch down tight against the work, on Y the channel side of the between substance, but is not continued long enough to draw any thread from the preceding loop.

rl`he tension device of the machine is constructed and arranged to exert a constant light tension upon the thread. In the construction Vshown the tension devicecomprises a tension` wheel. 142 about which the thread is passed, said wheel being 'mounted4 upon oneend of a shaft144-journaled in a bearing inA the frame of the machine. To the Vopposite end of theV shaft 144 issecured brake wheel or pulley 146 about which passes a brake cable 148. rlhe cable 148 is secured at one end to the bracketlO, and is actedupon by a spring 152 connectedV at one end with the other end of the cable, and

at its other end with aneye bolt 154. AThe eyefbolt passes through an opening in the bracket 150, and has threaded thereon an adjustingnutl engagingin a slot in the bracket. The strength of the spring 152 isl comparatively slight, and through the ac-V tion of this springthe brake cable 14S is caused toexert a comparatively .light braking. action upon thebrake wheel146 which tends to retard the rotation Vof the tension wheel 142. The tension or pull exerted by the spring 152 upon the cable 148 may be adjusted to regulate the tensionV on the threadfby turning thel nut 15G and thereby adjusting-the eye bolt1'54.

rllhe channel guide of the present ma-A chine is made upof two parts arranged side by'side.V In the drawings the two parts of the channel guide are indicatedas 158 and 160. The two parts of thel channel guide areformed with work-engaging, blade-like ends for engagement in the channel in the usual manner. The two parts ofthe channel guide areA mounted upon Vthe feed slide to reciprocate therewith andA are arranged to oscillate upon the feed slide to carry their Vwork-engaging ends towardand from the bottom of the channel. The part 158 of the Achannel guide carries afeed point 162 arranged to project into the stock-below the' between substanceof the sole from the bottom of the channel so asito cause the shoe to be advanced with the channel guide during Vthe forward movement thereof in the direction of feed during each cycle of operation. The oscillating movement of the part 158- of the channel guide is somewhat greater in amplitude than that of the part 160, so that the feed point 162 is withdrawn back of end of the part 160 of the guide before the guide is retracted in the direction of feed, and the feed point is projected beyond the end of the part 160 before the guide is advanced in the direction of feed. rlhe part 158 of the channel guide is secured by a screw 164 to a lever 166 pivoted by means of a Stud 168 upon the feed slide 170. rl`he screw 164 engages in a slot 172 in the part 158 of the guide, the slot permitting a vertieal'adjustment of the part 158 upon the lever 166. The part 160 of the guide is secured by screws 172 (Figs. 1 and 6) to a plate or block 174 which is secured by a screw 17 6 to a lever 17 8 pivoted by means of stud 180 upon the feed slide 170. The screw 176 engages in a slot 182 in the plate 174 which permits the vertical adjustment ef the plate on the lever 178. The plate is adjusted vertically upon the lever by means of an adjusting screw 184 threaded into the lever and having a flange or collar 186 engaging in a groove in the plate. rl"he feed slide 170 is mounted to reciprocate longitudinally upon the stud 188 secured at one end in the frame of the machine. The levers 166 and 178 are held from movement longitudinally on their respective pivot studs 168 and 180 so that they reciprocate with the feed slide. Pivotal movement of the feed slide upon the stud 188 is prevented by the engagement of a block 190 formed at one end of a stud-..192 secured in the frame of the machine in a slot in an arm 194 on the feed slide. The mechanism for reciprocating' the feed slide comprises a lever 196 mounted upon pivot studs 198 and 200, and having an arm 202 formed with a slot 204 (Fig. 2) in which is secured a stud 206 upon the upper end of which is pivoted ablock 208 engaging in a groove 210 in the under side of the feed slide. Upon the rear end of the arm 202 is mounted a cam roll 212 engaging in a cam groove in the cam disk 82. The lever 17 8 is oscillated on its pivot stud to carry the acting end of the part 160 of the guide toward and from the ottoni of the channel, and connections are provided for oscillating the lever 166 from the lever 178 to project the feed point and withdraw it back of the act ingend of the part 160 of the guide as the acting end of the part 160 is moved toward Vand from the bottom of the channel.

vthe outer end of the arm 216, and engages in a slot 224 in an arm 226 on the lever 178. To enable the effective length of the arm 216 to be adjusted to regulate the amplitude To the opposite end of the shaft 218 is se.

cured an arm 284 carrying a cam roll 236 engaging a cam groove in the cam disk 32. The lever 178 is formed with an arm 240 Vsubstantially parallel with the arm 226, the

arm 240 being connected with the arm 226 by a curved web 242. rlhe arm 240 is connected with an upwardly extending arm on the lever 166 by means of a link 244. The lever 166 thus receives oscillating movement from the lever 17 8. 1t will be noted from an inspection of the drawings, and more particularly Fig. 6, that the pivot stud 180 of the lever 17 8 is considerably nearer the work-engaging end of the channel guide than the pivot stud 168 of the lever 166, so that the movement of the actin r end of the part 158 of the channel guide is greater than that of the acting end of the part 160. The rear end of the link 244 is connected with the arm 240 by means of a stud 246 mounted in a block 248 secured Yin a slot 250 in the arm 240. The forward end of the link 244 is connected with the lever 166 by means of a stud 252 secured in a slot 254 in the lever. rlhe stud 246 may be adjusted by the adjustment of the block 248 in the slot 250, and the stud 252 may be adjusted in the slot 254 to vary the extent or the amplitude of the oscillating movement imparted to the lever 166 by the lever 178. With this construction and arrangement of the mechanism for actuating the parts of the guide as the lever 17 8 is actuated to withdraw or disengage the part 160 of the guide from the bottom of the channel the lever 166 will be actuated to impart a movement of greater amplitude to the part 158 of the guide to disengage the end of the vaart 158 0f the guide from the bottom of t e channel and to withdraw the feed point within the acting end of the part 160. lWhen the lever 178 is actuated to move the acting end of the part 160 on the guide toward the bottom of the channel, the lever 166 will be actuated to impart a movement of greater amplitude to the part 158 on the channel guide to engage the acting end of the part 158 with the bottom of the channel and to project the feed point beyond the part 160. The parts of the guide are con structed and arranged so that at the end of feeding movement of the feed slide the part 158 lies just at one side of the path of the needle so as to support the work firmly against the thrust of the needle as the needle pierces the work. rlhe parts of the guide remain in engagement with the bottom of the channel during the work-piercing stroke of the needle, after which they are actuated to disengage their work-engaging ends from Y withdrawn far enough so that it does not Y the channel bottom, the movement of the part 158 of the guide withdrawing the feed point back of the acting end of the part 160. During the return movement of the guide in the direction of feed, if the end of the part 160 of the guide drags along the bottom of the channel, the feed point is catch in and cut or tear the stock.

Figs. 14.@ to 17 inclusive illustrate the manner in which the channel guide operates during each cycle of operation. Fig. 14 'shows the position of the parts at a point in a cycle of operations just before the work is fed. It will be noted that the acting ends of both of the parts of the channel guide are engaged with the bottom of the channel, and

y that the feed point is firmly engaged in the stock. ln feeding the shoe `the channel guide moves from the position shown in Fig. 14 to that shown in Fig. 15, so thatthel forward side of the part 158 of the guide lies ,close to the path of the needle. The width of the channel guide is considerably less than the combined width of, er the distance taken up by the feed point and awl in the usual machines of this type, so that the shoe may be turned much more readily during the feeding of the shoe. ln such machines, the turning of the work upon the feed point as a fulcrum enlarges the opening made by the Vfeed point in the stock, and the turning 'of the work on the channel guide often causes the feed point to tear or cut the stock, and also often results in disengaging the feed point from the stock before the feeding of the shoe is completed. Because of the proximity of the sides of the channel guide to .the feed point, which is located substantially in the center thereof, there is no particular tendency to disengage the feed point from the stock during the turning of the-\ shoe. Furthermore, the work is turned on the acting end of the channel guide an-d not upon the feed point, so that there is no tendency to enlarge in this Way the hole made ly the feed point, and thus weaken the stock. Also, there is no tendency of the feed point to tear the stock during the turning of the shoe. As shown in Fig. 18, the feed point projects from the channel guide in a direction substantially in line with the end of the channel guide looking from the side thereof, so that it projects into the stock below the line of penetration of the needle Y indicated by the dotted line in Fig. v18, or

Y' against the thrust of the needle. Before the news-i1 Vchannel guide moves back in the direction of the line of feed, the part 160 of the guide is actuated to carry its acting end away from the channel bottom, and the part 158 of the guide is actuated to Withdraw the feed point back of the acting end of the part 160 of the guide, as shown in Fig. 16. The end of the part 160 of the guide may drag along the bottom of the channel as the channel guide is retracted in the direction of feed, and the withdrawal of the feed point back of the end of the part 160 of the guide prevents the feed point from catching in the stock and tearing it during the retracting movement of the guide. Fig. 17 shows the position of the parts after the channel guide is retracted. Vvl-Then the channel guide has reached its retracted position in the direction of the line of feed, the part 160 of the guide is actuated to engage its acting end with the bottom of the channel, and the part 158 is actuated to project the feed point beyond the end of the part 160 of the guide, and to engage the end of the part 158 of the guide with the bottom of the channel. With this construction, the leaving of a Ypuncture in the between-'substance at one chine disclosed in applicants pending application Serial No. 807 ,216, filed December 17, 1913. 1

The back gage 16 is secured to the forward end of a slide 256 mounted in guides in a larger slide 258. The slideV 258 is mounted in guides in the frame ofthe chine, and is held therein by aV retaining plate 260. The back gage is moved toward and from the shoe by the longitudinal movements of the slide 258. The mechanism for imparting'these movements to the slide 258 comprises a cam lever 262 pivoted at 264C on the frame and having an arm 266 which is connected by a link 268 with the slide 258. The other arm 270 Yof the cam lever carries a cam roll 272 engaging in a cam Vgroove in the cam disk 79. rlhe rear end of the link 268 is connected with the arm 266 of the cam lever 262 by an eccentricV stud 274; By turning the eccentric stud 274; the limits of movement of theV slide 258 may be adjusted. The forward end of the link 268 fits over a boss 276 (Fig. 7) formed on the slide 258.

The slide 256 is acted upon by a spring 278V the plate 260, and the other end of which en- Y gages the upper side of a pin 284 projecting from the inner end of the stud or bolt 286V mounted in the arm 266. The pin 284 is arrangedyeccentrically to the stud 286 and the stud is mounted in the arm 266 so that it may be turned to adjust the position of the pin. The adjustment of the pin regulates the tension exerted by the spring 278 shoe the spring 278 permits the slide 256 to yield relatively to the slide 258'and the latter slide thenmoves forwardly independently of the slide 256 to its limiting forwardv position. Nhen the slide 258 has completed its forward movement, and before the needle retracts from the work, the slide 256 is locked to the slide 258 so as to furnish a firm support for the work to resist the backward pull of the needle as the needle retracts from the work. Before the slide 258 is retracted, the slide 2,56 is unlocked relatively to the slide 258. As the slide 258 is retracted the slide 256, after reaching its limiting position relative to the slide 258, is retracted with the latter slide. The mechanism for locking the slide 256 to the slide 258 comprises a locking bolt 288 (F ig. 7) extending through a slot 290 in the slide 256 and having a head 292 arranged to engage the inner face of the slide 256. The locking bolt 288 is formed with a series of screw threads 294 engaging corresponding screw threads formed in the interior of the boss 276 on the slide 258. The rotation of the bolt 288 in one direction will cause the head 292 of the bolt forcibly to engage the inner face of the slide 256 and lock this slide to the slide 258, while the turning of the bolt in the opposite direction will release the head 292 of the bolt from engagement with the slide 256 to unlock said slide relative to the slide 258. rlhe mechanism for turning the locking bolt comprises an arm 296 secured to the outer end of the bolt, a lever 298 loosely mounted on the bolt, and a spring 300 coiled about the bosses 302 and 304 formed respectively on the arm and on the lever, said spring having one end engaged with the rear side of a pin 306 mounted in the arm 296 and its other end engaged with the front side of a pin 308 mounted in the lower arm of the lever 298. The spring 300 tends to turn the arm 296 and the lever 298 in opposite directions, or to turn the arm and the locking bolt 288 in a direction relative to the lever 298 to cause the bolt to lock the slide 256 to the slide 258. The relative movement of the arm v296 and the lever 298 under the action of the spring 300 is limited by the engagement of a lug 310 (Fig. 10) formed on the boss 302 with an abutment face 312 formed at one end of a recess 314 in the boss 304 into which the lug 310 projects. l/Vhen the upper arm of the lever 298 is swung rearwardly, the arm 296 is actuated through the spring 300 to turn the locking bolt 288 until the head 292 of the bolt engages the slide 256 to lock the same to the slide 258. As the swinging movement of the lever 298 continues after the head of the locking bolt engages the slide 256, the abutment face 312 on the boss 304 leaves the lug 310 and the locking bolt is then held in locked position through the action of the spring 300. l/Vhen the upper arm of the lever 298 is swung forwardly, the arm 296 and the locking bolt are held in locked position by the action of the spring 300 until the abutment face 312 engages the lug 310. rlhe arm 296 is then actuated to turn the locking bolt in a direction to release the head 292 thereof from the slide 256 to unlock the latter slide. The lever 298 is actuated by means of a cam lever 316 pivoted at 318 on the frame and connected with the upper arm of the lever 298 by a link 319.

The cam lever 316 carries a cam roll 320 engaging a cam groove in a cam disk 321 mounted on the main shaft of the machine.

The arrangement of the actuating mechanism for the lever 298 so that the locking movement of the lever is in excess of that required to lock the slide 256 to the slide 258 insures the lockingY of the slide 256 under all conditions and eliminates the necessity of provisions for adjustment to take up wear in the locking mechanism. The forward movement of the slide 256 relative to the slide 258 is limited bythe engagement of the rear face of the slot 290 with the locking bolt288. j

The back gage mechanism above described has the following mode of operation during each cycle of the machine. Starting with `the slide -258 in retracted position, the slide 256 then being unlocked relatively to the slide 258 and held in its forward position with the rear face of the slot 290 in engagement with the locking bolt 288 by the action of the spring 278, as the slide 258 moves forwardly the slide 256 moves forwardly therewith until the back gage engages the shoe. r1`his arrests theV forward movement of the slide 256 and the slide 258 then moves forward independently of the slide 256 to its limiting forward position. Before the needle retracts from the work the slide 256 is locked to the slide 258 so that the back gage is held rigidly against the backward pull of the needle as the needle retracts from the work. Before the slide 258 is retracted, the

slid@ 256 is unlocked relatively to the slide 258 and the slide 256 is retracted to carry the back gage away from the work during the retracting movement of the slide 258 through vthe engagement of the rear face ofV guides in the frame of the machine andheld therein by a plate 323. The slide 322 is acted Y upon by a spring-actuated arm 324 pivoted upon a stud 326 and formed with a slot 328 in which engages-a pin 330 mounted on the slide. The arm 324 is acted upon by a coiled spring coiled about the stud 326, one endof whichengagesl a projection 334 on the arm 324, and theother end of which engages a projection 336 on a collar or sleeve 338 secured to the upper end of stud 326. This bspring tends to swing the arm 324 forwardly, and thus to movel the slide 322 forwardly in its guides to advance the back rest. When the slide 322 is free to move in its guides, the back rest accommodates itself to the position of the shoe through the yielding action of the spring 332. During the Y greater part of each cycle of operation,how ever, and preferably at substantially all times except during the feeding of the work, the back rest is locked in position so as to assist in holding the shoe in position. In the constructionshown, the locking `mechanism for the back rest comprises a `locking bolt 340 (Figf') passing through a slot 342 y in the slide 322, and provided with a series V of screw threads 344 engaginga series of corresponding screw threads in a bushing 346 secured in the frame of the machine. The locking bolt 340 is formed witlran enlargement or collar 348 arranged in an opening in the forward retaining plate 323 to engage the outer face of the slide 322. By

- turning Vthe locking bolt 34()` in one dithe slide to unlock the slide.

Vrection, the collar 348 is caused forcibly to engage the outer face of the slide 322 to lock the slide in position in its guides in the frame, and by turning the locking bolt in the opposite direction the collar 348 is disengaged from the outer face of The mechanism for turning the locking bolt 340 is similar to the mechanism for turning the locking bolt'288, and comprises an arm 350 secured to the outer end of the vlocking bolt 340, a lever 352 loosely mounted upon the locking bolt, anda spring 354 coiled about thebosses 356 and 358 formed respectively Von thearm- 350 and on the lever 352, one end of saidspring engaging the rear side of a.

pin 360 mounted inthe arm 350, and the other end of the spring engaging the front side of a pin 362 mounted in the lower arm ofthe .lever 352. The spring 354 tends to turn the arm 350 and the lever' 352 in opposite directions, or to turn the locking bolt yrelatively to the lever 352 in a. direction to engage thevcollar 348 withthe outer face of the slide 342. The relative turning` movement of the arm V350 and the lever 352 under the action of the -spring'354 is limited by theengagement of a laterally projecting lug 364 formed on the bossl 356 with an abutment face 366`formed at one end of a recess l365 in the boss 358 intowhich the 'lug 364 projects. As the upper arm of the lever 352-1s swung rearwardly, the arm 350 is actuated through the spring 354, during the first part of the movement of the lever, to turn the :locking bolt in a direction to engage the collar 348 with the outer face of the engages the lug ,364. The arm 350 is then actuated to turn the locking bolt in a direction to unlock the slide. The mechanism for thus actuating the lever 352 comprises a cam lever 370 pivoted upon the stud 372 and `connected by a link3`74 with the upper arm V a cam roll 376 engaging in a cam groove of the lever 352. The cam lever 37() carries in the cam disk 3,21.

The channelguide mechanism of the present machine, and a back gage mechanism are not claimed in-this application but form the subject matter respectively ofv applications VSerial Nos. 256,881 and 256,882, filed October 4, 1918. Y

Having explained the naturefand object of theinvention, and having specifically described a machine embodying the invention in its preferred form, what is claimed is:

l. A wax thread sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, and'means for imparting movements to the looper to lay the thread in the hook of the needle and `additional movements to takeup and give out thread. Y

2. A wax thread sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a thread arm,

Vmeans for impartingmovements to the looper to lay the thread in the hook et the needle and additional movements to take up and give out thread, and means tor actuating the thread arm te take up and give out thread with the looper.

3. An inseam shoe sewing machine, having in combination, stitch forming devices including a heel; needle, a looper, channel guide, a thread arm te engage the thread intermediate the looper and the work arranged to move toward the central portion ot the sole to measure eti" thread and te movetoward the margin oit the sole to give up thread, and means tor actuating the looper to lay the thread in the hook of the needle and for actuating the looper and thread arm to take up and give out thread.

4;. A. wax thread chain stitch sewing machine, having in combination, stitch forming devices including a hoek needle, a looper, a thread arm, means for actuating the thread arm to draw out a loop in the thread to draw the thread taut about the shank ot the needle while the needle is engaged in the work, and means tor actuating the looper to give up thread, to the thread arm during the loop drawing stroke of the thread arm.

5. A chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machine, having in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a channel guide, a thread armV to engage the thread intermediate the looper and the work arranged to move toward the central portion ot the shoe sole to measure oil thread and to move toward the margin of the sole to give up thread, means for actuating the thread arm to draw out a loop in the thread to draw the thread taut about the shank of the needle while the needle is in the work, and means for actuating the looper to give up thread to the thread arm during the loop drawing stroke of said arm.

6. A wax thread chain stitch sewing machine, having in combination, stitch Jforming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a thread arm, means for actuating the thread arm to draw out a loop in the thread to draw the thread taut about the shank of the needle while the needle is in the work, and means for moving the looper in the same direction as the thread arm a less distance during the loop drawing movement ofthe thread arm to give up thread to the thread arm.

7. A wax thread chain stitch sewing machine, having in combination, stitch iorming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a thread arm, means for moving the thread arm to draw out a loop in the thread to draw the thread taut about the shank of the needle while the needle is in the work, for moving the looper in the same direction as the thread arm a less distance during the loop drawing movement of the thread arm to give up thread to the thread arm, for moving the looper and thread arm back in the opposite direction substantially the same distances betore the thread is laid in the `barb of the needle by the looper, and tor moving the thread arm te give up thread to the needle as the needle barb is passing through the work.

8. war; thread sewing machine, having in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper and means for supporting the looper and for actuating the looper in two intersecting planes to carry the looper about the needle having provision for adjustment to adjust the movement of the looper in each of said planes.

9. A wax thread sewing machine, having in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, mechanism for actuating the looper in two intersecting planes to carry the looper about the needle comprising a cam actuated member, a cam rollcarried by said member, means whereby the cam roll may be adjusted relatively to said member to adjust the movement of the looper having provision for securing the roll in adjusted position.

10. A wax thread sewing machine, having in combination, stitch forming devices includinga hoelr needle, a looper, mechanism for actuating the looper comprising an oscillatory cam lever, a second lever pivoted upon the cam leverto-oscillate in"a"plane intersecting the plane of oscillation of the cam lever, a looper carried by the second lever, a cam roll carried by the cam lever, means whereby the cam roll may be adjusted relatively to the cam lever, means whereby the looper may be adjusted relatively to the second lever, and means for oscillating the second lever.

il. A wax thread sewing machine, having in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a looper carrier, a sleeve rotatably adjustable in the looper carrier, and having a thread guiding passage arranged eccentrically with relation to the sleeve, and means for actuating the looper carrier to carry the looper about the needle.

12. A wax thread sewing machine, having in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper mechanism comprising an oscillatory lever, a second lever mounted on the first lever to oscillate in a plane intersecting the plane of oscillation or" the first lever and having a rib and groove connection with the first lever, a looper carried by the second lever, and means tor oscillating the levers to carry the looper about the needle.

13. A wax thread sewing machine, having in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, mechanism Jfor actuating the looper including a cam lever, a cam roll mounted thereon, and means whereby the cam roll may be adjusted relatively to the cam lever to adjust the movement of the looper having provision for securing the roll in adjusted position.

14. A Wax thread sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, and means for imparting movements to the looper to lay the thread in the hoolrof the needle and i 10 additional movements to give out thread.

15. A chain stitch sewing machine having,

in combinationystitch forming devices i; eluding` a hook needle, a looper, a thread arm, a take-up, means for actuating the take-up While the thread arm is stationary to take up the slack in the loop of thread about the needle when the needle is n the Work, and means for actuating the thread arm to draw the thread taut about the needle just before the needle reaches the end of its Work piercing stroke. Y

FRANK CHATEAUNEUF. 

